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Free Arduino Boost box
3. Tools and parts
4. Electronic schematics & diagrams
8. Vehicle Installation
Imagine that you own a 1.8 Tsi/Tfsi Engine which is equipped with a
Maf* sensor and a turbocharger. How grate would it be if you could just
give your engine a 25hp to 30hp boost without affecting the factory ecu*
code? With some soldering skills and some parts that will not cost more
then 70$ this can be possible.
For years the tuning industry is selling tuning boxes* for a variety of cars
and brands. Tuning boxes are substitutes of Software remaps for more
performance in a diesel or petrol engines.
Of course Software remaps are always better but sometimes people can’t
afford them or are scared to proceed in altering the factory code.
So.. .Here it is a homemade tuning box that will save you money and give
you some power without affecting the Software inside the ecu and can be
installed or removed in seconds.
This box has been tested on a 1,8Tsi engines for about a year without
problems. We have developed it for testing reasons and to give the client
a small idea of how good the car will be if we remap the stock ecu but
since the global economy is suffering we decided to give a piece of our
mind for free ©
With some or no modifications in the code it could work on 2.01tfsi too
but I have not tested that since we always remap those cars.
Feel free to email us with any questions / suggestions at:
Using the well known Arduino* platform we developed this simple box
without spending more then 70$ for the complete set of parts. Our main
goal was to keep a low cost while having a trustworthy device.
So we used the Arduino* platform and some connectors and cables to
interfere with the factory map sensor get the actual signal, alter it and
then send it back to the Ecu*.
In most cases if you alter the signal too much factory Ecu* will
understand that and will put your car in a safe mode. Of course once you
reset it with a diagnostic and remove the boost box this fault code will not
be displayed any more. After some tests we figured out how you could
surpass that problem and keep the power in good levels.
What is this box? This is an electronic device that tricks the factory
engine management Computer in order to produce more power by adding
boost. The boost signal is coming from the map* sensor and that is what
we have to alter.
While you do tests use quality fuel. In Europe we use 95, 97 or 100
octane fuel so we suggest 100 octane or else you will need to decrease the
number signal modification number thus you will have less power from
the Arduino* boost box.
To sum up this will be a step by step guide to help you build your own
tuning box for your 1.8tsi 160hp engine. I will try to be as analytic as i
3.Tools And Parts
Jv O N
Tools: 1. Professional Soldering iron.
2 .Pc with winows xp or newer.
3. Usb mini to pc usb cable(usually inside the arduino).
4. Usb to printer usb cable.
6. Vag com Cable (Vcds^for testing purposes).
Parts: 1. Arduino nano 328p.
2. Small cables & long cables 4 different colors. (Red - Black -
Green - Yellow)
3. Tekam enclosure 11.9 (or any other enclosure you like).
4. Old map sensor plug Female (you can cut from a bad hamess)
bosch code 1J0 973 704
5. Broken or damaged map sensor 2550mbar Bosch (1.8t 20v or
any other 4 pin vw map sensor) or you can get a narrowband Bosch
lambda female connector (4 wire) tyco IkO 973 804 .
6. Dac* 5571 (Texas instruments) sot23 8bit 5v .You can order a
sample from Texas instruments site for free, © or you can buy on ebay.
7. Prototype pcb (piece 5.5cm x 5.9cm).
9. Sot23 8pin breakout board from ebay (or 6 pin breakout board
for sot23 6 pin).
10. Atmega* 328 with 1280 or 2560 Arduino board(for boot loader
replacement) or Arduino duemilanove (my personal choice).
Map sensor plug source : http://kyae.en.alibaba.eom/product/5 18465271-
Arduino nano v3
Teko Tekam Enclosure
Sot23 6pin pcb
PIN CONFIG U RATIONS
Lot Trace Code
PIN DESCRIPTION (SOT23-6)
Analog output voltage from DAC
Ground reference point for all
Analog Voltage Supply Input
Serial Data Input
Serial Clock Input
Device Address Select
Year (3 = 2003); M onth (1-9 = JAN-SEP; A=OCT,
B=NOV, C=DEC); LL- Random code generated
when assembly is reguested
ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM RATINGS (1)
V DD to GND
- 0.3 V to +6 V
Digital input voltage to GND
-0.3 V to +V DD +0.3 V
V OUT toGND
- 0.3 V to +V DD +0.3 V
Operating temperature range
-40'“C to +105°C
Storage temperature range
Junction temperature range (Tj max)
(Tjmax - T A )RejA
Thermal impedance, Rej A
Lead temperature, soldering
Vapor phase (60s)
(1) Stresses above those listed under “Absolute Maximum Ratings" may cause permanent damage to the device. Exposure to absolute
maximum conditions for extended periods may affect device reliability
Pinout to arduino :
l.Signal output to ecu hamess
2. Ground (gnd)
3. +5 v
4.Scl (arduino Sel)
5.Sda (arduino Sda)
6.Address (i2c Address usually you can connect to gnd
check the diagram of the pcb)
Arduino nano Diagram
Arduino Nano Pin Lavout
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Digital input/output port 0 to 13
Reset (active low)
+3.3V output (from FTDI)
Analog input channel 0 to 7
+5V output (from on-board regulator) or
+5V (input from external power supply)
Arduino ISP connection
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Pcb Layers and layouts.
Now in the next photo you will see a pcb board containing the parts and
the connections. You will notice that there is an area with another part
that is missing above the Dac5571.This are was left as it is with the
connections open for a feature accelerometer installation (Adxl335).You
will not need it right now so leave it as it is. You will fmd it also in the
fritzing pcb design in the download section. There is also a resistor part
but actually you will use a bypass wire on that.There is no need for any
resistors in the design.
The usb port of Arduino should point to the bottom of the pcb. I have not
included a pin to pin diagram connection because from the way the pcb is
arranged it will not give you any more information. But you can see it by
opening the fritzing pcb *.fzz file.
The output to the map sensor connector is from left to right 1 2 3 4.
Remember to think of the above pcb as a transparent bottom view.
1. Yellow(signal from map sensor connector female plug) input
2. Green(signal for the map sensor connector male plug) output
3. Black(Gnd from map sensor connector male plug to female plug and to
4. Red(+5v From map sensor connector male plug to female plug and to
The pcb is using power from the ecu that is why you need to wire both
plugs and the pcb to have a working circuit.Only the green and yellow
wires are different.
And some photos of a fmished prototype with some mistakes corrected
on the fly.
Pin 1 Ground
Pin 2 NTC resistor
Pin 3 +5 V
Pin 4 Output signal
You do not need to connect the pin 2 since there is no wire coming from
03D 906 051
03D 906 051
03D 906 051 A
03D 906 051
03D 906 051 A
Facet: 1 0.307-4
O ♦ NTC -
250 - 4750
This is the actual connector which you will see on your car. From right to
left 184.108.40.206 as the above picture
1. Windows pc
2. Arduino version 0022(cause I used that for the Software)
3. Arduino version 1 (cause I used that one to make avr isp and load the
4. Hyperterminal(For communication with the arduino) mostly for testing
5.0ptiboot atmega328 or optiboot atmegal68 for quicker arduino boot
6. Boost box simple . pde (original boost box code).
7. Wire library for arduino(for dac5571 communication).
8. Vag com software(vcds for testing purposes).
9. Fritzing freeware pcb fabrication Software.
http ://www. gt-innovation. gr/downloads/arduino-1,0.rar
http ://www. gt-innovation. gr/downloads/arduino-0022,rar
And the pcb schematic and connection diagram here in fritzing format
and the pcb in pdf:
http ://www. gt-innovation. gr/downloads/T si-
Bootloader flashing :
If you don't change the original boot loader arduino will not boot in time
and after some ignitions you wil get a dtc for the map sensor. Ecu will
think that the sensor is missing because it does not get any signal until the
Arduino starts up.
So the procedure for programming the Optiboot boot loader is the
To use your Arduino board to burn a boot loader onto an AVR, you need to follow a
few simple steps.
1 . Open the Arduino ISP firmware (in Examples) to your Arduino board.
2. Note for Arduino 1.0: you need to make one small change to the Arduino
ISP* code. Find the line in the heartbeat() function that says ”delay(40);" and
change it to "delay(20);". <1 never did that>
3. Select the items in the Tools > Board and Serial Port menus that correspond
to the board you are using as the programmer (not the board being
4. Upload the ArduinoISP sketch.
5. Wire your Arduino board to the target as shown in the diagram below. (Note
for the Arduino Uno: you’ll need to add a 10 uF capacitor between reset and
6. Select the item in the Tools > Board menu that corresponds to the board on
which you want to burn the boot loader (not the board that you're using as
the programmer). See the board descriptions on the environment page for
7. Use the Burn Bootloader > Arduino as ISP* command.
Now if you use my files you will not need to alter any configuration or
add any library to the Arduino compiler.I have already made the
configuration for flashing the nano 328 with the appropriate bootloader.
You will just need to use Arduino 0022 or flashing the code and 1.0 for
burning the boot loader into the nano 328.
In the 022 Version under tools -> Board you will fmd a board named
Arduino Nano ATmega328 optiboot and Arduino Nano ATmegal68
Use this board so you can flash the code into the arduino nano.
In arduino 1.0 version you will fmd the Arduino Nano ATmega328
optiboot only since 1 did not used the 168 for flashing back the original
Here are the complete notes of what I did and why:
Change boot loader due to optiboot or lady ada boot fix.
000567 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too Low
P0237 - 000 - - - Intermittent - MIL ON
to fix the boot loader issue i did the following
Rename optiboot_atmega328.hex boot loader to
ATmegaBOOT_168_atmega328.hex in the Atmega folder inside
the version 1 folders C:\arduino-
Then i programmed Arduino duemilanove to arduino avr isp and chose
Atmega 328 nano choice in the devices
on Arduino Gui.
then i loaded the Arduino boot loader using the Duemilanove as isp*
programmer with version 1 code.
After that i opened the 0022 folder C:\arduino-0022\hardware\arduino
and then i wrote the following to C:\arduino-
optiatmega328.name=Arduino Nano ATmega328 optiboot
optiatmega328 .upload. protocol=stk5 00
optiatmega32 8 .upload. maximum_size=30720
optiatmega328. bootloader. low_fuses=0xFF
optiatmega32 8 .bootloader. high_fuses=0xDE
optiatmega328 .bootloader. extended_fuses=0x05
opti atmega3 2 8. boot 1 oader. path=atmega
optiatmega328 .bootloader. file=optiboot_atmega328 ,hex
optiatmega32 8. bootloader. unloek_bits=0x:
optiatmega328 .bootloader. loek_bits=0x0F
optiatmega32 8. build. mcu=atmega32 8p
optiatmega32 8. build. f_cpu= 16000000L
optiatmega32 8. build. core=arduino
then i opened 022 Arduino gui and chose atmega 328 optiboot and
compiled and uploaded the sketches.
Once you do that you have completely fmished with the coding part of
the device and you are almost ready to test.
While testing the power that we could achieve from that device we found
out that we should not exceed the number 9 in this line of the arduino
int ScrB = 9; //Powertune value for voltage reduction
For instance with a value of 10 the car will jerk a lot until the ecu
regulates the boost.
The value of 9 should be used with premium 98 or 100 octane fuel. With
7 or 8 you are safe for 91 to 95 octane fuel. The boost will be around 1.1
bar using a value of 9 while the stock Software does not exceed 0.8 bar.
There are a lot of ways to test your device but the basic one is to see if the
signal from and to the device is ok. S o using a multimeter check the
voltage of the output signal while your arduino is connected to the usb
port of your Computer. Since power is coming from the ecu power output
for the sensor and now you are not connected there, you will need to
power up your arduino using your pc. Power on the red and black cable
should be around 4.5x Volt .The value should be 1.6xx volt on the output
(green cable) because we have a constant voltage variable in the code
before we start getting signal:
int sensorValue = 400; // variable to store the value coming from
Now this device was never tested on any kind of altitude so I do not know
how good it will work on 500+ meters from the sea.
The code is regulating after some pressure to avoid any kind of altitude
problems and to avoid boost spikes on wot.
if(DACval > 130)
reduce i2c dac value for scrambling
// if more then 1300 mbar
percent = (ScrB / 10) * (DACval / 4);// percentage calculation
DACval = DACval - percent; // value reducer
This code is what makes the device work so you can tweak it but I do not
Next test requires a Vcds unit and will be performed after the successful
build of the device. This test is just for vehicle health and should be
performed if you need to be sure that everything works fme apart from
the electronics you build.
Connect vag com to the obd port and go into the engine section.
After that locate the advanced measurement blocks and find the knock
sensor blocks. You can log them and see if the knock signal is getting
much higher then the stock one by comparing before and after wot tests
for at least 2 or 3 gear changes.
This device was tested on 3 brands with the same engine described
Audi A3 1.8 Tsi 160hp
Seat leon 1.8 Tsi 160hp
Skoda Octavia 1.8 Tsi 160hp
In some cases this device produced 35 to 40 hp due to good fuel and cold
The installation will be easy if you let enough cable from the sensor
connectors to the main board. This is your engine bay.
Remove the plastic cold air intake cover and that plastic pipe that is
connected to it.
After that you will need to locate the map sensor. The map sensor is
located on the intake manifold pipe just before the throttle.
Check between the radiator ant the engine intake with your right hand and
check under the big black radiator pipe.
Make sure you have a cold engine because otherwise you will get some
Now remove the connector and instali the custom boost box between the
map sensor and the map sensor hamess
Once you are fmished you can hide the box inside the battery box
assuming you left enough cable. Ready for test driving and have fun.
Tuning Box : Electronic device that interrupts the factory harness and
alters the sensor data from the sensor to the ecu(aka piggy back).
Ecu : Engine management computer(Electronic control unit)
Maf: Mass Air flow sensor
Map : Manifold Air pressure sensor
Arduino : Programmable microcontroller circuit using an open source
Dac : Digital to analog converter
Atmega : Microcontroller type from Atmel
ISP : In-System Programmer
Gt-innovation is not responsible for any damage or misuse of this
document. Use it at your own risk.
All Rights Reserved. All Content Copyright and other rights reserved by
its Respective Owners. No Content May Be Duplicated Without Express
Arduino source : http://arduino.ee/en/
Texas instruments : http://www.ti.com/
Teko Tekam : http://www.teko.it/
Fritzing pcb design : http://fritzing.org/
Vag com : http://www.ross-tech.com/
Gt-innovation : http://www.gt-innovation.net/
Copyright © 2007, www.Gt-innovation.net, all rights reserved
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